Crafting Your Own Hair Oil: Promoting Hair Growth and Health

Picture of Anna Hall
Anna Hall

Founder of Wellbeing Winnie, Author of 'You Body Is Listening'

Table of Contents

As within, so without

Crafting your own hair oil, where do we start?

 

The adage “As within, so without” symbolises the intricate relationship between the inner and outer worlds. It posits that our inner state, be it positive or negative, finds reflection in our external experiences and circumstances (obviously this includes your hair). This ancient wisdom, embraced by various philosophical and spiritual traditions, encourages introspective self-reflection and mindful, intentional living.

 

The principle of inner well-being manifesting as external health is fundamental in Ayurveda, Herbalism and holistic healing practises, especially when considering the physical form. Essentially, a harmonious inner state, encompassing mental, physical, and emotional health, reflects visually in the outer world and one’s physical appearance.

 

I discovered a passion for helping others through herbalism, holistic therapies, and yoga in a former life as a hairdresser. Despite my enjoyment of the profession. My realisation that I couldn’t assist people with chronic health or hair issues motivated me to pursue these fields of study. 

So, what has this got to do with making your hair oil?

Before embarking on hair oil treatments, it’s crucial to introspect and address the following questions:

 

  1. Understand the underlying reasons behind seeking a change in your hair’s appearance.
  2. Investigate the root causes of your hair losing its lustre and vitality.
  3. Identify any underlying health conditions or medications that may be impacting your hair health.
  4. Evaluate whether your diet and mental well-being are contributing to overall hair health.
  5. Consider the exposure to environmental pollution and its potential impact on your hair.
  6. Assess the potential harm caused by the hair products you use regularly.

 

By reflecting on these factors and striking a balance between hair treatments and understanding the causes of your hair concerns, you can develop a more informed approach to achieving healthy, beautiful hair.

 

Both Ayurveda and Herbalism, which are ancient systems of medicine, hold that hair )and the rest of the body) as being composed of the five elements: earth, water, fire, air, and ether. 

 

These elements are present in varying proportions, resulting in different hair types. Individuals with thick, coarse hair generally have a predominance of earth and water elements, while fine, thin hair typically indicates a greater proportion of air and ether elements.

 

The harmonious balance of these elements determines the health and appearance of the hair. When the elements are in equilibrium, the hair remains healthy, lustrous, and robust. Conversely, an imbalance can lead to a range of hair concerns, such as dryness, brittleness, and an increased susceptibility to breakage.

 

To maintain healthy hair, Ayurveda emphasises the importance of balancing the elements through various practices. This can include adopting a diet rich in essential nutrients, incorporating herbal remedies and oils into hair care routines, and engaging in regular self-care practices like meditation and yoga. By addressing the underlying elemental imbalances, Ayurveda offers a holistic approach to promoting healthy, beautiful hair.

Methods to promote Equilibrium with the hair & Scalp

Practitioners that employ these age-old techniques engage in a variety of methods to promote equilibrium in the hair and scalp’s elements.

 

These techniques include:

 

    • Herbal remedies: Herbs are used to help balance the elements in the hair and scalp. Some commonly used herbs for hair care include amla, bhringraj, and shikakai.
    • Massage: Massage helps to improve circulation to the scalp, which can help to promote hair growth. It also helps to relax the mind and body, which can reduce stress-related hair loss.
    • Diet: Holistic practitioners believe that diet plays an important role in hair health. They recommend a diet that is rich in fruits, vegetables, and whole grains. They also recommend avoiding processed foods, sugary drinks, and excessive caffeine.
    • Lifestyle: Practitioners also believe that lifestyle factors such as stress, lack of sleep, and excessive exposure to the sun can damage the hair. They recommend getting regular exercise, getting enough sleep, and protecting the hair from the sun.
Infused oil Wellness Crafting your own hair oil

The Hair Growth Cycle and Causes of Hair Loss

Understanding the hair growth cycle is crucial in comprehending the reasons for hair health  and The hair growth cycle consists of three distinct phases: Anagen (growth), Catagen (transition), and Telogen (resting). After the Telogen phase, the hair follicle typically re-enters the Anagen phase, beginning a new growth cycle. During the Anagen phase, the hair follicle produces new hair cells, pushing the older hair shaft out of the follicle and up through the scalp.

 

  1. Anagen Phase (Active Growth Phase):
    • During the anagen phase, new hair cells are produced in the hair follicles, resulting in active hair growth.
    • This phase typically lasts for 2 to 6 years, determining the overall hair length.
  2. Catagen Phase (Transitional Phase):
    • The catagen phase marks the transition from the anagen to the telogen phase.
    • It is a short phase, lasting only a few weeks, where the hair follicles shrink and detach from the blood supply.
  3. Telogen Phase (Resting Phase):
    • During the telogen phase, the hair follicles are in a resting state, and the hair remains in place.
    • This phase typically lasts for 2 to 3 months, after which the hair is shed and the cycle begins anew.

 

However, sometimes the hair follicle may fail to re-enter the Anagen phase due to genetics, hormonal changes, or certain medical conditions. This results in the hair follicle losing its nutrient supply and ceasing hair growth, leading to prematurely stopped growth. The affected hair shaft becomes thinner, shorter, or falls out, causing hair loss.

Factors Contributing to Hair Loss:

  1. Genetics and Hormones:
    • Genetic predisposition plays a significant role in hair loss, influencing factors such as hair thickness, texture, and growth patterns.
    • Hormonal imbalances, particularly in relation to androgens like testosterone, can contribute to hair loss.
  2. Age:
    • With advancing age, natural hair growth slows down, and the hair follicles become weaker, leading to thinning hair and increased hair loss.
  3. Medical Conditions:
    • Certain medical conditions, such as thyroid disorders, alopecia areata, and cancer treatments like chemotherapy, can cause temporary or permanent hair loss.
  4. Lifestyle Factors:
    • Poor diet, nutritional deficiencies, excessive stress, and certain medications can contribute to hair loss.
    • Styling habits involving heat styling tools, tight hairstyles, and chemical treatments can damage the hair and lead to breakage.
  5. Environmental Factors:
    • Exposure to harsh weather conditions, UV radiation, and air pollution can damage the hair and scalp, contributing to hair loss.

Hair thinning and baldness can have various causes, including genetics, ageing, malnutrition, poor iron levels, and vitamin absorption issues. Alopecia, a common hair loss condition, is often triggered by stress. Additionally, hormonal factors can contribute to hair thinning and baldness. Thyroid function plays a role, particularly in women, while Dihydrotestosterone (DHT) is a crucial factor in hair growth in men. DHT is responsible for male facial and pubic hair development but can also contribute to the deterioration of scalp follicles, ultimately leading to hair loss.

Crafting your Own Hair Oil

How covid has contributed to hair loss

Telogen effluvium is a type of non-scarring hair loss that is characterised by sudden and excessive shedding of resting hair strands. It can be acute or chronic. It happens when more than 15% of hair follicles enter the Telogen (resting) phase, which normally comprises about 15% of the hair on a healthy scalp. Stressors, hormonal changes, and medications can trigger Telogen effluvium.

 

Telogen effluvium is a common hair loss condition found with patients who where hospitalised with COVID-19.

 

A recent study  conducted on 198 hospitalised COVID-19 patients found that nearly half of them experienced hair loss. The study participants included 79 males (39.9%) and 119 females (60.1%), with ages ranging from 18 to 85 years. The study attributed the increased incidence of hair loss to the psychological stress and extensive medication use associated with COVID-19.

 

Hair loss due to Telogen effluvium typically lasts around 3 to 6 months before starting to grow again. However, the time it takes for the total hair volume to return to normal depends on the length of the hair.

Your Own Hair Oil:

Before discussing oils, we ought to give due consideration to the tonic.

Hair tonics:

Are usually  infusions of herbal compounds in water that are applied to the hair, either by soaking or spray the hair and scalp until the hair is saturated. depending on the strength of the tonic,  the infusion is usually rinsed off the hair after a period of time (30 minutes – 1 hour after application).

 

But why?

 

Well quite simply they are frequently used in an attempt to stimulate and strengthen hair growth.  Although the specific mechanisms by which they work remain unclear, some individuals report positive results while others observe no noticeable effects.

 

A common belief is that hair tonics stimulate the hair follicle and its blood supply to promote growth, but there is currently lack of scientific evidence to support this claim. To better understand the potential benefits of hair tonics, further research is needed to establish correlations between successful outcomes and other lifestyle factors such:

 

  • Did individuals experience reduced stress levels when using the hair tonic?
  • Were specific age groups more likely to achieve successful results?
  • Is hair loss hereditary in the family?
  • What is the individual’s diet and exercise routine like?
  • Are they exposed to higher levels of toxins in their bodies?
  • Do they live in a city or rural area, where environmental pollutants may vary?

 

A little bit of history

 

English Physician Nicholas Culpeper’s (1616-1654) “The Systematisation of the Use of Herbals” played a pivotal role in the development of modern pharmaceuticals, serving as a foundational text in the field. The majority of the Culpers’ information and research originated from the field of herbalism.

 

Culper suggested two potential remedies for hair growth and reducing hair loss: applying linseed oil to the hair or consuming an infusion of sage water once daily. Additionally, the infused sage water can be applied to the hair for a short time before rinsing (as a tonic).

 

There does seem to be some evidence for his suggestion. Both linseed oil and sage contain Phytoestrogens which are plant-derived estrogen-like compounds that share a similar structure to 17β-estradiol, a primary female sex hormone. Recent research indicates that the appropriate level of phytoestrogens can contribute to improved hair growth, while excessive estrogen can lead to hair thinning.

Herbal Infusions To Include In A Tonic

Chamomile for Revitalized Hair (Learn more about chamomile here):

  • Chamomile, renowned for its restorative properties, can revitalise sun-faded hair.
  • It fortifies hair strands, preventing split ends.
  • Chamomile has the ability to naturally lighten hair color.
  • It restores radiance and adds shine, transforming dull locks into vibrant, healthy-looking hair

Nettle for Hair Loss Prevention:

  • Nettle, a plant with a long history of medicinal use, is known for its role in addressing hair loss.
  • For centuries, it has been used to prevent and treat hair loss effectively.
  • Nettle’s abundance of sulphur and silica strengthens the hair shaft, enhancing overall hair health.

Apple Cider Vinegar for Dandruff and Scalp Health:

  • Apple cider vinegar, with its natural antibacterial and antifungal properties, is often used as a hair rinse.
  • It is effective in combating dandruff.
  • Apple cider vinegar’s soothing qualities provide relief for itchy scalps and heightened scalp sensitivity.

Rosemary has been used by many to promote hair growth. 

  • In moderation – rosemary may benefit nerve tissue. The study revealed that carnosic acid, a bioactive compound found in the plant, has the potential to mend nerve and tissue damage. This remarkable ability to repair nerve endings could potentially extend to the nerves in the scalp, potentially promoting hair growth restoration.
 
Here is a guide to choosing the right essential oils based on your hair type:
—–Normal Hair:
  • Eucalyptus
  • Cedarwood
  • Geranium
  • Orange
  • Lavender
  • Rosemary
—–Oily Hair:
  • Basil
  • Bergamot
  • Cedarwood
  • Cypress
  • Grapefruit
  • Lavender
  • Lemon
—–Dry Hair:
  • Frankincense
  • Geranium
  • Lavender
  • Palmarosa
  • Rosemary
  • Sandalwood
—–Damaged Hair:
  • Lavender
  • Frankincense
—–Fine Hair:
  • Geranium
—–Dark Hair:
  • Rosemary
  • Thyme
—–Fair Hair:
  • Roman Chamomile
—–Grey Hair:
  • Sage
—–Frequently Washed Hair:
  • Geranium
  • Horsetail
  • Lavender
  • Rosemary
—–Thinning Hair:
  • Basil
  • Clary Sage
  • Cypress
  • Palmarosa
  • Rosemary
  • Thyme
  • Cedarwood
—–Dandruff:
  • Cedarwood
  • Rosemary
  • Sage
  • Tea Tree
  • Thyme
  • Patchouli

How the ayurvedic elements can affect hair health:

Earth: Provides strength and thickness to the hair. An excess of earth can lead to thick, coarse hair that is prone to oiliness. A deficiency can result in thin, weak hair that lacks volume.

 

 

Some essential oils that help with this element (As you may have guessed these all have an earthy scent):

 

Vetiver, Clove, Ginger, Cinnamon, Black Pepper, Sandalwood, Camphor, Cedarwood, and Patchouli.

 

 

Water: Nourishes and hydrates the hair. Too much water can lead to limp, lifeless hair, while too little can cause dryness and brittleness.

 

 

Chamomile, Eucalyptus, Jasmine, Lemon, Myrrh, Rose, Ylang Yang

 

 

Fire: Promotes hair growth and pigmentation. An excess of fire can lead to premature greying and hair loss, while a deficiency can result in slow hair growth and a lack of shine.

 

 

Amber, Cinnamon, Spice, Ginger, Frangipani, 

 

 

Air: Provides lightness and movement to the hair. Too much air can lead to dry, frizzy hair, while too little can make the hair heavy and flat.

 

 

Lavender, Lemongrass, Peppermint, Spearmint,, Lemon and Myrtle

 

 

Ether: Governs the overall health and vitality of the hair. An excess of ether can lead to dull, lifeless hair, while a deficiency can result in hair that is prone to breakage and split ends.

 

 

Cypress, Geranium, Lavender, Lemon, Neroli, and Ylang Ylang 

Benefits Of Crafting Your Own Hair Oil and/or Tonic

Natural and Pure Ingredients: You have complete control over the ingredients used in your hair oil, ensuring they are natural and free from synthetic additives or harsh chemicals that could potentially damage your hair.

To ensure we make informed choices about the products we use, it’s crucial to understand their labels. This includes knowing the chemicals they contain and whether they’ve been tested on animals. By creating our own products, we gain complete control over the ingredients used. This eliminates any uncertainty and gives us peace of mind knowing exactly what we’re putting on our hair.

 

Customised for Your Hair Type: Your hair is unique, so a store-bought hair oil might not address your specific needs. Crafting your own allows you to cater to your hair type, whether it’s dry, curly, oily, or colour-treated.

 

Cost-effective: Making your hair oil is significantly more budget-friendly compared to purchasing ready-made products that may contain questionable ingredients.

Having long and thick hair, I’ve noticed that a small bottle of store-bought hair oil only lasts me for three washes. If I’m washing my hair three times a week, this can quickly become a costly routine.

 

Versatile Uses: Hair oil has multiple benefits beyond nourishing your scalp and strands. It can also be used as a styling agent to tame frizz or add shine, a deep conditioning treatment, or a split-end mender.

Step-by-Step Guide: Crafting Your Own Hair Oil and/or Tonic

Gather the Ingredients:
  1. Choose a carrier oil that suits your hair type, such as coconut, argan, jojoba, or almond oil.
  2. Select essential oils based on your desired effects. For example, rosemary for stimulating hair growth, lavender for soothing the scalp, and tea tree oil for dandruff control.

 

Choosing The Base/Carrier Oil

For hair oil we will need a ‘carrier’ or ‘base’ oil, These are oils used in high quantities to dilute essential oils before applying them to the skin. They contain high levels of fatty acids, which nourish the skin and hair.

They have several uses, including moisturising, reducing acne, promoting hair growth, and improving scars and wrinkles.

 

Before using any carrier oil, a patch test should be performed to check for allergies. The selection of carrier oil depends on skin type and desired results, with heavier oils like castor oil recommended for dry skin, and lighter oils like coconut oil suitable for oily skin.

 

Here are three carrier oils, listed from thickest to lightest:

 

  • Castor oil
  • Olive oil
  • Coconut oil

 

Benefits of Castor Oil for Hair Care:

 

  • Viscosity and Spreadability: Castor oil’s thick consistency allows it to adhere to hair strands easily, ensuring even distribution and maximum absorption.
  • Moisturising and Conditioning: Castor oil is a rich source of fatty acids, which help to nourish and hydrate the hair and scalp. It penetrates deep into the hair follicles, providing long-lasting moisture and preventing dryness and breakage.
  • Scalp Health Benefits: Castor oil’s anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties help to soothe and cleanse the scalp. It can alleviate conditions such as dandruff, psoriasis, and scalp infections.
  • Hair Growth and Strength Enhancements: Castor oil contains ricinoleic acid, which has been shown to promote hair growth. It helps to stimulate blood circulation to the scalp, which encourages healthy hair growth. Additionally, castor oil’s moisturising and conditioning properties help to strengthen the hair shaft, reducing breakage and split ends.
  • Versatility: Castor oil is suitable for all hair types, from thick and curly to fine and straight. It can be used as a pre-shampoo treatment, a deep conditioner, or a leave-in conditioner, depending on individual hair needs.

 

Benefits of Olive Oil for Hair Care:

 

  • Nourishment and Hydration: Olive oil is rich in monounsaturated fatty acids, which deeply nourish and hydrate the hair and scalp. It helps to restore the hair’s natural moisture balance, resulting in soft, shiny, and healthy-looking hair.
  • Antioxidant Protection: Olive oil contains antioxidants that help to protect the hair from environmental damage caused by free radicals. These antioxidants scavenge harmful molecules, preventing premature ageing and damage to the hair cuticle.
  • Scalp Health Improvements: Olive oil’s anti-inflammatory properties help to soothe and moisturise the scalp, reducing itchiness and irritation. It can also help to prevent and treat scalp conditions such as dandruff and psoriasis.
  • Hair Growth Stimulation: Olive oil contains oleuropein, a compound that has been shown to promote hair growth. It stimulates blood circulation to the scalp and encourages the growth of healthy, strong hair.
  • Split-End Prevention: Olive oil’s moisturising and conditioning properties help to prevent split ends by sealing the hair cuticle and protecting it from damage.
  • Natural Styling Properties: Olive oil can be used as a natural styling product to tame frizz, add shine, and define curls. It provides hold without weighing the hair down or leaving a greasy residue.
  • Colour Protection: Olive oil’s antioxidant properties help to protect coloured hair from fading and damage caused by UV rays and chemical treatments.
  • Heat Protection: Olive oil can be used as a heat protectant to shield the hair from damage caused by blow-drying, flat ironing, and curling.
  • Detangling Abilities: Olive oil’s emollient properties help to detangle knots and tangles without causing breakage.
  • Versatility and Affordability: Olive oil is a versatile and affordable hair care ingredient that can be used in various ways, including as a pre-shampoo treatment, a deep conditioner, a leave-in conditioner, a styling product, and a heat protectant.

 

Benefits of Coconut Oil for Hair Care:

 

  • Deep Nourishment: Coconut oil is rich in lauric acid, which has a high affinity for hair protein. It penetrates deep into the hair shaft, providing intense nourishment and hydration.
  • Anti-Bacterial and Anti-Fungal Properties: Coconut oil has anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties that help to protect the hair and scalp from infections. It can help to prevent and treat conditions such as dandruff, scalp ringworm, and other microbial infections.
  • Scalp Soothing Effects: Coconut oil’s soothing and anti-inflammatory properties help to relieve scalp itchiness, irritation, and dryness. It can also help to reduce inflammation caused by skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis.
  • Heat Protection: Coconut oil can be used as a heat protectant to shield the hair from damage caused by blow-drying, flat ironing, and curling. It helps to create a protective barrier around the hair shaft, preventing moisture loss and damage to the cuticle.
  • Natural Detangling Qualities: Coconut oil’s emollient properties help to detangle knots and tangles without causing breakage. It can be used as a leave-in conditioner or a detangling spray to keep the hair smooth and manageable.
  • UV Protection: Coconut oil contains natural SPF properties that help to protect the hair from damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) rays. It can help to prevent colour fading and sun damage.
  • Anti-Hair Fall Benefits: Coconut oil’s nourishing and moisturising properties help to reduce hair fall by strengthening the hair shaft and preventing breakage. It can also help to stimulate hair growth by promoting a healthy scalp
Your Own Hair Oil:
Mix the Oils:

 

As you prepare your mix, consider whether you will be solely using essential oils or infusing dried herbs as well.

 

The ancient method of infusing herbs into oil by slow steeping transfers the therapeutic qualities, aroma, and hue from the herbs to the oil. During the infusion process, beneficial compounds, fatty acids, and natural essential oils are extracted from the herbs and absorbed by the carrier oil. This traditional form of medicine making harnesses the therapeutic potential of herbs for various healing purposes.

 

As an herbalist practitioner, I prioritise completing this step before adding the essential oils. There are two infusion methods to consider:

 

Cold Method of herbal infusion:
  1. In a sterilised jar, fill approximately one-third of the space with dried herbs.
  2. Add your preferred carrier oil (except coconut oil, as it solidifies at room temperature) to fill the remaining two-thirds of the jar.
  3. Securely seal the jar.
  4. Place the jar in a warm, sunny location for two weeks, allowing the herbs to infuse the oil.

 

Hot Method of herbal infusion:
  • Using the same ratios as above, place your sealed jar in a saucepan lined with a tea towel and half-filled with water. (This creates a bain-marie.)
  • Heat on low for 45 minutes.
  • Let the jar cool and remain sealed until completely cooled.

 

What is the best way to combine essential oils and carrier oils?

 

  • When creating a blend of carrier and essential oils, think about the intended outcome. If the goal is a calming and soothing product, select ingredients that complement each other in achieving that effect. For instance, avoid using peppermint or tea tree oil in a sleep aid blend, as these oils are known for their stimulating and energising properties. Additionally, consider the different scents of essential oils, as not all combinations will be pleasant smelling.

 

  • In a clean, dark glass bottle, combine the carrier oil and essential oils in your preferred proportions. Accuracy is essential when using essential oils. I recommend not exceeding a 1% concentration of essential oil. As a reference, 1 ml of essential oil is roughly equivalent to 20 drops. Therefore, I suggest not using more than 20 drops of essential oil for every 100 ml of carrier liquid.
Simple Recipe For A Hair Tonic

 

Make your Infusion:

 

  1. Fill a jar or jug, fill third full with your desired dried herb.
  2. Add boiling water filling the jar/jug, and leave to infuse for a minimum of 3 minutes
  3. Strain and keep in fridge for up to three days.

 

Create your Tonic

 

When dealing with dandruff and hair loss:

 

  • Add 4 parts nettle infusion.
  • 1 part camomile infusion:
  • 1 part apple cider vinegar.
  • lemon or grapefruit essential oil 1% essential oil. 

 

Adding shine, soothing scalp and encouraging hair growth:

 

  • 4 parts nettle or sage infusion
  • 1 part camomile 
  •  lavender essential oil 1%

 

Crafting your hair oil or tonic is a rewarding and beneficial venture that allows you to nourish your hair with natural, customised ingredients. By following the steps outlined in this blog post, you can create your own hair oil tailored to your unique needs. Experiment with different carriers and essential oils to discover the perfect combination for your luscious locks.

 

Remember, consistency is key – regular use of your homemade hair oil will gradually reveal its transformative effects. Embrace the journey towards healthier, more beautiful hair with your very own DIY hair oil.

 
 

How To Use Your Crafted Oil

  1. Hot Oil Treatment:

    • Warm a small amount of oil in your hands and massage it into your scalp and hair, covering the strands from root to tip.

    • Wrap your hair in a warm towel or plastic wrap and leave it on for 30 minutes to an hour.

    • Wash and condition your hair as usual.

  2. Leave-In Conditioner:

    • Apply a dime-sized amount of oil to damp hair, focusing on the ends to prevent split ends.

    • Style your hair as desired.

  3. Scalp Treatment:

    • Massage a few drops of oil into your scalp before bed to soothe dryness, itching, or dandruff.

    • Leave it on overnight and wash your hair in the morning.

  4. Styling Agent:

    • Use a small amount of oil to tame flyaway hairs, define curls, or add shine to your hair.

    • Apply it to dry or damp hair as needed.

Summing Up

Crafting your hair oil or tonic is a rewarding and beneficial venture that allows you to nourish your hair with natural, customised ingredients. By following the steps outlined in this blog post, you can create your own hair oil tailored to your unique needs. Experiment with different carriers and essential oils to discover the perfect combination for your luscious locks.

 

Remember, consistency is key – regular use of your homemade hair oil will gradually reveal its transformative effects. Embrace the journey towards healthier, more beautiful hair with your very own DIY hair oil.

Teas & Hot Drinks

You can read more about this wonderful herb and others with our Treetop Teahouse ebook.

Treetop Teahouse Menu Ebook – available for download from our store  here

Teas to help with sleep

 £3.00

Ebook – Available in English and Italian

Each page will guide you through the preparation of a handful of herbal teas and includes the reputed benefits as well as contraindications.

Herbal alternatives can be very powerful. Some of the suggested teas can interfere with certain medications. Please consult your medical practitioner before starting any new healthier alternatives.

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